{"id":90334,"date":"2025-03-07T21:23:00","date_gmt":"2025-03-07T21:23:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.karakalem.avrupabelge.com\/karakalem\/doguya-yolculuk\/"},"modified":"2025-03-07T21:23:00","modified_gmt":"2025-03-07T21:23:00","slug":"doguya-yolculuk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.karakalem.avrupabelge.com\/karakalem\/doguya-yolculuk\/","title":{"rendered":"Do\u011fuya Yolculuk"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>28.12.2003<\/p>\n<p>\u0130LK BAKI\u015eTA, Prof. R\u2019nin bana \u00e7izdi\u011fi yol k\u0131lavuzu, benim i\u00e7in, anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r, hatta belki de \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fclebilir bir\u015feydi. Kriz enkaz\u0131 alt\u0131nda kalan \u0130ran ve Arnavutluk gibi yerlere yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m seyahatlerin bu sefer de ayn\u0131 metodu kullanmama olumsuz tesiri olup olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 merak etmeye ba\u015flad\u0131m. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Prof. R., sosyal etkile\u015fimi kolayla\u015ft\u0130ran nazik ve tan\u0131d\u0131k bir geleneksel hitapla, \u201cFred Bey\u201d diye seslendi, \u201cbu gezi olduk\u00e7a kolay olacak. \u00d6ncelikle Bedi\u00fczzaman\u2019\u0131n do\u011fdu\u011fu yer olan Nurs\u2019u g\u00f6rmelisin. Oradan Van\u2019a, daha sonra Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019a ve son olarak g\u00f6m\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yer olan Urfa\u2019ya gidersin. Umar\u0131m orada bulunan karde\u015flerimizin seni a\u011f\u0131rlamalar\u0131na itiraz\u0131n olmaz.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Bunu nas\u0131l reddedebilirdim? Kendisiyle hen\u00fcz birka\u00e7 hafta \u00f6nce tan\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f olmakla birlikte, Prof. R. m\u00fctevazili\u011fi, titizli\u011fi ve tatl\u0131 n\u00fckteleri ile bana g\u00fcven vermi\u015fti. \u015eimdi, bir sonbahar g\u00fcn\u00fcnde, Do\u011fuya seyahat etmek niyetiyle \u0130stanbul\u2019da geri d\u00f6nm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcm.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Prof. R. ustaca plan\u0131 uygulamaya ba\u015flad\u0131. \u0130stanbul\u2019dan en uzaktaki yer olan Van\u2019a gitmek i\u00e7in u\u00e7ak biletlerini bir haftada \u00f6nceden ay\u0131rtmak gerekiyordu, fakat Prof. R.\u2019nin verdi\u011fi akla uyarak, ertesi g\u00fcn u\u00e7mak \u00fczere T\u00fcrk Hava Yollar\u0131\u2019ndan bir Erzurum bileti sat\u0131n ald\u0131m. Oradan, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin seyahat i\u00e7in en \u00e7ok tercih etti\u011fi vas\u0131ta olan \u015fehirleraras\u0131 otob\u00fcsle, \u00fclkenin en b\u00fcy\u00fck g\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcn bulundu\u011fu \u015fehre gidebilirdim.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Bir Kas\u0131m g\u00fcn\u00fcyd\u00fc. Kar \u015fimdiden Anadolu\u2019nun y\u00fcksek yama\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 kaplam\u0131\u015ft\u0131 ve s\u0131cakl\u0131k geceleyin s\u0131f\u0131r\u0131n alt\u0131na d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. \u201cM\u00fcmk\u00fcn olan en k\u0131sa zamanda yola \u00e7\u0131kmal\u0131s\u0131n,\u201d dedi Prof R. \u201cYak\u0131nda k\u0131\u015f gelince da\u011f k\u00f6ylerine ula\u015fman hayli g\u00fc\u00e7 olur. Oralarda \u00e7ok kar olur.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Katlanm\u0131\u015f yol haritam \u00fczerinde, takip edece\u011fim g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131 i\u015faretledim. Erzurum\u2019dan hareketle, Do\u011fu Anadolu\u2019nun en u\u00e7 k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131na, ter\u00f6r y\u00fcz\u00fcnden tahrip olmu\u015f b\u00f6lgenin ta g\u00f6be\u011fine, \u0130ran\u2019a elli-altm\u0131\u015f kilometre mesafede ve tehlikeli Irak K\u00fcrdistan\u2019\u0131 s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131na yak\u0131n yerlere gidecektim.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Prof. R. kalb\u00ee bir tebes\u00fcmle \u201cMerak etme\u201d diye bana cesaret verdi. \u201cBildi\u011fim kadar\u0131yla, g\u00fcvenlik meselesi kontrol alt\u0131na al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f durumda.\u201d Bunun b\u00f6yle olup olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, G\u00fcneydo\u011funun yabani, ta\u015f kapl\u0131 ge\u00e7itlerine va \u00e7orak yama\u00e7lar\u0131na do\u011fru seyahatim s\u0131ras\u0131nda anlad\u0131m. Talihe bak\u0131n ki, bu seyahat, kimine g\u00f6re mesih, kimine g\u00f6re ise \u015feytan olan ele ge\u00e7irilmi\u015f K\u00fcrt lider Abdullah \u00d6calan\u2019\u0131n ac\u0131kl\u0131 ve \u00fcmitsiz bir ak\u0131bete giden uluslararas\u0131 trajikomik saklamba\u00e7 oyunuyla ayn\u0131 zamana rastlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">* * *<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u00d6\u011eLE \u00dcZER\u0130 \u0130STANBUL\u2019DAN ba\u015flayan yolculuktan bir-birbu\u00e7uk saat sonra, u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bulutlar\u0131 yararak Erzurum\u2019a vard\u0131 ve \u015fehrin \u00fczerinde al\u00e7al\u0131\u015fa ge\u00e7ip, vadideki asker\u00ee havaalan\u0131na ini\u015f yapt\u0131. THY jet u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131 havaalan\u0131na girerken, d\u0131\u015far\u0131da Hava Kuvvetlerine ait askerlerin y\u0131\u011f\u0131nak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f istihkamlardaki bekleyi\u015fleri dikkatimi \u00e7ekti. Hangi i\u015fgalci kuvvete kar\u015f\u0131 m\u00fccadele veriyorlard\u0131? T\u00fcrkiye, \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131 sonras\u0131nda, muhtemel bir Sovyet tehdidine kar\u015f\u0131 Sam Amcan\u0131n kollar\u0131na at\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131; bu Rusya, \u015fimdilerde, birbiriyle sava\u015f halindeki beylikler ve yaral\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fck d\u00fckal\u0131klar g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc arzediyordu. Karadeniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bulunan G\u00fcrcistan, ayr\u0131l\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 \u00e7eki\u015fmeler i\u00e7erisine d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f durumdayd\u0131; h\u00fck\u00fbmet, az\u0131nl\u0131ktaki cengaver Abazalar ve azg\u0131n \u00e7etelerle m\u00fccadele ederken, Unocal\u2019un ba\u015f\u0131 \u00e7ekti\u011fi Amerikan petrol \u015firketleri konsorsiyumuna \u00e7aresiz halde esir olmu\u015f durumdayd\u0131. T\u00fcrkiye i\u00e7in tarih\u00ee \u00f6c\u00fc olan Ermenistan, bir ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z devlet olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, kuvvetten d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f ve do\u011fu i\u00e7in \u00e7ok k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir tehdit olan Azerbaycan ile \u00e7at\u0131\u015fma i\u00e7ine girmi\u015f haldeydi. \u0130ran, \u0130sl\u00e2m devriminden yirmi y\u0131l sonra, Taliban sinsice do\u011fu s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndan i\u00e7erilere sokulurken, h\u00e2l\u00e2 sal\u0131vermi\u015f oldu\u011fu \u015feytanlarca di\u015flenmekteydi. Anglo-Amerikan kabaday\u0131 koalisyonu taraf\u0131ndan soyup so\u011fana \u00e7evrilen ve habire bombalanan Saddam H\u00fcseyin Irak\u2019\u0131 ise, kom\u015fusunun g\u00fcvenli\u011fi i\u00e7in tehlike arzedecek bir pozisyona ancak seneler sonra gelebilirdi: \u015fimdilerde ke\u015ffedilmemi\u015f korkun\u00e7 silahlar ve faili me\u00e7hul \u00f6l\u00fcmler diyar\u0131 olan bu \u00fclkenin kom\u015fusu i\u00e7in en u\u00e7 tehdidi, nihai bir da\u011f\u0131lma ve \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fc\u015f ya\u015famas\u0131yd\u0131. Ve daha \u00f6nce s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc etti\u011fim neo-Maoist K\u00fcrdistan \u0130\u015f\u00e7i Partisi (PKK) lideri Abdullah \u00d6calan\u2019\u0131 bar\u0131nd\u0130ran Suriye, Ankara\u2019n\u0131n sava\u015f tehdidine boyun e\u011ferek, misafirini s\u00fcrg\u00fcn etmi\u015fti. K\u0131sacas\u0131, hangi jeopolitik \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcte g\u00f6re bak\u0131l\u0131rsa bak\u0131ls\u0131n, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 g\u00fcvenliydi ve do\u011fudaki kom\u015fular\u0131 ona zarar vermekten uzakt\u0131.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u201cYurtta sulh, cihanda sulh\u201d s\u00f6z\u00fc Kemalist bir doktrin olarak T\u00fcrk d\u0131\u015f politikas\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6zetlemektedir. \u0130srail ile T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin h\u00e2kim asker\u00ee yap\u0131s\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki ili\u015fkiler \u00e7ok samimi bir noktaya ula\u015f\u0131p ABD\u2019nin stratejik m\u00fcttefiki olmak \u015feklinde noktalan\u0131nca, bu hava kuvvetlerinin savunma amac\u0131 d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda da kullan\u0131labilece\u011fi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesi zihnime yerle\u015fti.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">E\u011fer Suriye ile \u0130srail aras\u0131nda patlamaya haz\u0131r bir bomba olan Golan tepelerine dair gerilim artarsa, T\u00fcrkiye yeni dostu Siyonistlerle birlikte geni\u015f \u00e7apl\u0131 b\u00f6lgesel bir \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmaya girer mi? E\u011fer \u0130ran, Washington ve Tel Aviv\u2019in \u2018toplu imha silahlar\u0131\u2019 diye adland\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 plan\u0131n\u0131 ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirecek olursa, d\u00fcnya jandarmal\u0131\u011f\u0131 yapan Amerika, \u0130srail\u2019in WMD cephanesini korumak i\u00e7in \u0130ran\u2019a sald\u0131r\u0131r m\u0131? B\u00f6ylesi bir durumda Amerika, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019yi b\u00f6lgesel jandarma olarak se\u00e7meye muktedir olabilir mi? B\u00fct\u00fcn bunlar, istendi\u011fi takdirde, ya bir Birle\u015fmi\u015f Milletler karar\u0131 veya bir NATO \u00fcltimatomu ile me\u015frula\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lacakt\u0131r. Yahut, ba\u015fka bir senaryo: Acaba cazibeli bir \u00e7eyiz gibi duran, M\u00fcttefiklerin u\u00e7u\u015f yasa\u011f\u0131 koydu\u011fu, gev\u015fek bir y\u00f6netimi olan ve bir zamanlar Osmanl\u0131\u2019ya ba\u011fl\u0131 bulunan, hatta bu ba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 h\u00e2l\u00e2 unutmam\u0131\u015f olan, Irak K\u00fcrdistan\u0131\u2019n\u0131 kaplayan, zengin petrol yataklar\u0131na sahip Musul\u2019u almak i\u00e7in Ankara\u2019n\u0131n gizli bir plan\u0131 m\u0131 var?<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Bir istikrars\u0131zl\u0131k bata\u011f\u0131 olarak kalan, Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun b\u00f6l\u00fcnmesinden miras kalan gizli, \u015fiddet i\u00e7eren \u2018stat\u00fckoyu yeniden kurma\u2019 \u00e7abalar\u0131n\u0131n etkisiyle par\u00e7alanm\u0131\u015f bir b\u00f6lgede, jet u\u00e7aklar\u0131, istikrars\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6nlemekten ziyade, do\u011frusu kendileri istikrars\u0131zl\u0131k \u00fcretiyorlar. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Bunlar, karamsar d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncelerdi. U\u00e7aktan inip, keskin r\u00fczg\u00e2r aras\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck su birikintilerine basarak Erzurum\u2019da ad\u0131m ad\u0131m ilerlerken, biraz \u00f6nceki d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnceler \u00e7oktan zihnimi terketmi\u015flerdi. Havaalan\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131nda bir adam elinde gayet s\u00fcsl\u00fc bir plastik \u00e7er\u00e7eve i\u00e7inde ad\u0131m\u0131n yaz\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu bir tabelay\u0131 sallar vaziyette dikkatimi \u00e7ekti. Selamla\u015ft\u0131ktan sonra, bekleyen arabaya atlay\u0131p buz tutmu\u015f an\u0131zlarla kapl\u0131 ekin tarlalar\u0131n\u0131n kaplad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ovadan ge\u00e7erek \u015fehir merkezine do\u011fru yol ald\u0131k.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Bana rehberlik eden ki\u015fi, Atat\u00fcrk \u00dcniversitesi\u2019nde ara\u015ft\u0131rma g\u00f6revlisi olarak \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan Harun isminde bir delikanl\u0131 idi. Harun, Erzurum Nur cemaatinin akademik bir \u00fcyesi olarak, hayli zay\u0131flam\u0131\u015f \u0130ngilizcesini de geli\u015ftirmek istiyordu. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Yumu\u015fak bir ses tonuyla, \u201cMaster\u0131m\u0131 Amerika\u2019daki bir \u00fcniversitede yapt\u0131m\u201d dedi. \u201cBurada \u0130ngilizce\u2019yi unutuyorum\u201d diye devam etti. \u201cErzurum\u2019da pratik yapacak ortam pek bulunmuyor.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Harun\u2019un Amerika\u2019da \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fi \u0130ngilizcesi, benim T\u00fcrk\u00e7em ile k\u0131yaslan\u0131nca daha iyiydi ger\u00e7i, ne ki k\u0131sa kelimelerden olu\u015fan g\u00fczel bir m\u0131r\u0131lt\u0131dan ibaretti.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">* * *<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u0130RAN\u2019A G\u0130DEN ANA karayolunun \u00fczerinde bulunan Erzurum, her\u015feyin asl\u00ee T\u00fcrk haliyle korundu\u011fu sert \u00e7ehreli bir \u015fehir olarak \u015f\u00f6hret kazanm\u0131\u015f. Bizansl\u0131lar\u0131n Theodosipolis diye adland\u0131rd\u0131klar\u0131 \u015fehir, 655 y\u0131l\u0131nda ilk kez Araplar taraf\u0131ndan fethedilince Arzan-er-R\u00fbm, yani \u2018Rumlar\u0131n diyar\u0131\u2019 diye an\u0131l\u0131r olmu\u015f. E\u011fer yak\u0131n tarihten ziyade ge\u00e7mi\u015fe g\u00f6z gezdirirsek, Do\u011fu Anadolu\u2019daki bir\u00e7ok \u015fehirde ve kasabada oldu\u011fu gibi, burada da me\u015fhur bir\u00e7ok ustan\u0131n, bir dinler ve \u0131rklar mozayi\u011finin izlerini bulabiliriz. Onlar\u0131n baz\u0131lar\u0131, bu\u011fulanm\u0131\u015f araba cam\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan bakarken seyrine doyamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m turkuaz \u00e7izgili minare misali, h\u00e2l\u00e2 ya\u015f\u0131yor. Baz\u0131lar\u0131 ise hi\u00e7bir iz b\u0131rakmadan kaybolup gitmi\u015f. Asl\u0131nda, izleri silinerek yok edilmi\u015f. Erzurum\u2019un T\u00fcrkl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, tarih\u00ee kay\u0131tlara g\u00f6re, yak\u0131n zamanlara has bir olgu.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Harun eski \u015fehrin merkezine yak\u0131n bir yerde arabas\u0131n\u0131 park ederken, ya\u011fmur g\u00fczel ve so\u011fuk bir \u015fekilde \u00e7iseliyordu. Anadolu manzaras\u0131n\u0131n mimar\u00ee \u015faheserlerinden yaln\u0131zca biri olan g\u00fczelim medrese, yolun kar\u015f\u0131 taraf\u0131ndayd\u0131. Bu binalar, \u0130ranl\u0131lar ve T\u00fcrkler taraf\u0131ndan, \u2018efendimiz,\u2019 \u2018ustam\u0131z\u2019 anlam\u0131nda Mevl\u00e2n\u00e2 diye sayg\u0131yla an\u0131lan Konyal\u0131 Celaleddin R\u00fbm\u00ee\u2019nin hamisi Anadolu Sel\u00e7uklu h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 Sultan Al\u00e2addin Keykubat\u2019\u0131n parlak y\u00f6netiminin beli\u011f \u015fahitleridir. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Harikul\u00e2de bir minaresi olan bu eski medrese art\u0131k eski fonksiyonunu icra etmiyor. Bir zamanlar medrese \u00f6\u011frencilerinin kutsal eserleri anlamak i\u00e7in topland\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck tavanl\u0131 odalar\u0131, art\u0131k geleneksel elbiselerin, silahlar\u0131n, yaz\u0131 ara\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n veya nurlu Kur\u2019\u00e2n\u2019lar\u0131n sergilendi\u011fi tozlu bir evi and\u0131r\u0131yor. Odalardan birinde sufilerin geleneksel elbisesi bulunuyor. Enginar gibi kabzas\u0131 olan bir k\u0131l\u0131c\u0131n k\u0131sa bir zincirle uzun ve pasl\u0131 bir \u00e7iviye as\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu dikkatimi \u00e7ekti. Harun ne oldu\u011funu bana a\u00e7\u0131klad\u0131:<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u201cBunlar Ruf\u00e2\u00ee dervi\u015flerinin kulland\u0131klar\u0131 \u015feyler\u201d dedi Harun, mimiklerinin de yard\u0131m\u0131yla. \u201cK\u0131l\u0131c\u0131 bir yanaktan ge\u00e7irip \u00f6b\u00fcr\u00fcnden \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131yorlar.\u201d Ruf\u00e2\u00eeler Anadolu\u2019nun ve Balkanlar\u0131n en etkin tarikatlar\u0131nda biriydi. Tarikat\u0131n onikinci as\u0131rda g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde Irak s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131na dahil bir b\u00f6lgede do\u011fan kurucusu Ahmed Ruf\u00e2\u00ee, sekiz ya\u015f\u0131na geldi\u011finde h\u00e2f\u0131z olur ve gen\u00e7li\u011finde \u015e\u00e2fi\u00ee mezhebinin bir\u00e7ok se\u00e7kin fukahas\u0131ndan \u0130sl\u00e2m hukuku dersleri al\u0131r. Ger\u00e7e\u011fe kaynakl\u0131k anlam\u0131nda \u00e7o\u011funlukla ger\u00e7e\u011fin kendisinden bile \u00fcst\u00fcn olan rivayete g\u00f6re, Ahmed Ruf\u00e2\u00ee T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de ad\u0131 halen yank\u0131lanan Hac\u0131 Bekta\u015f-\u0131 Vel\u00ee\u2019nin kerametlerini i\u015fitince Basra\u2019daki evinden ayr\u0131larak \u00e7ok uzaklardaki Horasan\u2019a gidip onunla g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmek ister. Bu yolculukta boynunda y\u0131lanlar\u0131n yular gibi sar\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu bir aslana rastgelir. Tam o s\u0131rada Hac\u0131 Bekta\u015f-\u0131 Vel\u00ee bir ta\u015f duvar y\u00fckselterek aslan\u0131 ka\u00e7\u0131rt\u0131r ve misafirini hayretler i\u00e7inde b\u0131rak\u0131r. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde Balkanlar\u0131n g\u00fcneyindeki Arnavut\u00e7a konu\u015fulan b\u00f6lgede ya\u015fayan Ruf\u00e2\u00eeler yaln\u0131zca yanaktan \u015fi\u015f ge\u00e7irmekle yetinmiyorlar. Ayr\u0131ca, kor ate\u015fi yutabiliyor, akrepleri ve zehirli y\u0131lanlar\u0131 ellerine alabiliyorlar. Allah\u2019\u0131 zikretmek, O\u2019na yalvarmak ve O\u2019nu hat\u0131rlamak \u00fczere yapt\u0131klar\u0131 sesli zikre binaen,  Ruf\u00e2\u00eeler \u2018inleyen dervi\u015fler\u2019 diye nam salm\u0131\u015flar. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u00d6len sek\u00fcler yazar, provokat\u00f6r, ve Salman R\u00fc\u015fd\u00ee\u2019nin \u015eeytan \u00c2yetleri kitab\u0131n\u0131 T\u00fcrk\u00e7e\u2019ye \u00e7evirten Aziz Nesin, yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 otobiyografisinde \u00e7ocuklu\u011funda babas\u0131n\u0131n t\u00e2bi oldu\u011fu bir \u0130stanbul tekkesinde ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015f bir hat\u0131ras\u0131n\u0131 \u015f\u00f6yle aktar\u0131r:<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u00c7iseleyen ve so\u011fuk bir havas\u0131 olan Erzurum, \u00e7ok k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre i\u00e7in, Ruf\u00e2\u00eeleri ve onlar\u0131n bu ayinlerini hat\u0131ra getirmek i\u00e7in \u00e7ok uygun bir mek\u00e2nd\u0131. Ac\u0131 veren \u015feylerden inan\u00e7tan ka\u00e7ar gibi ka\u00e7an bir as\u0131rda, bu ikisinin birle\u015fimi ve g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcrde eti\u011fe ayk\u0131r\u0131 bir \u00f6rne\u011fi olarak, bu ayinler zihnimde bir soru i\u015faretinin uyanmas\u0131na neden oldu: Kimin i\u00e7in veya hangi cesaretle \u015fimdi co\u015fup kendimizden ge\u00e7erek, mecaz\u00ee anlamda, \u00e7enemizden \u015fi\u015f ge\u00e7iriyoruz?<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Harun\u2019un rehberli\u011finde, Sel\u00e7uklu medresesinden tek ki\u015filik y\u00f6resel oltu ta\u015f\u0131ndan tesbih, y\u00fcz\u00fck ve gerdanl\u0131k yapan at\u00f6lyelerin bulundu\u011fu Erzurum pazar\u0131n\u0131 ge\u00e7erek eski \u015fehrin arnavut kald\u0131r\u0131mlar\u0131yla kapl\u0131 sokaklar\u0131na ula\u015ft\u0131k. Yosun gibi t\u00fcten kiremit bacalardan suyun damlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu b\u00f6lgeyi a\u011f\u0131r bir duman kaplam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Birden, nemli koyu ta\u015flar aras\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir din\u00ee yap\u0131 \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcze \u00e7\u0131k\u0131verdi.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u201cBuras\u0131 Kur\u015funlu Medrese. Said Nurs\u00ee burada bir ay kald\u0131, Rusya ile sava\u015fa girmeden \u00f6nce\u201d dedi Harun. \u201c\u0130\u00e7ine bakmak ister misiniz?\u201d<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Bu eski bina, din\u00ee ama\u00e7la olmasa da, halen kullan\u0131l\u0131yordu. Her bir kubbeli, kuytu h\u00fccresi civar k\u00f6ylerden gelip liseye devam etmek isteyen fakir \u00f6\u011frencileri a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131yordu. \u00d6rg\u00fcl\u00fc kazak ve \u00fct\u00fcl\u00fc ceket giymi\u015f bir grup gen\u00e7, merak ve utanma aras\u0131 bir tav\u0131rla bizi kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131lar. Her bir odada ancak d\u00f6rt ranzaya yetecek bir alan ve \u0131s\u0131nma ve \u00e7ay demleme amac\u0131yla kullan\u0131lan bir soba bulunuyordu. Ne bir masa, ne bir sandalye, ne de bir kitapl\u0131k vard\u0131. Damlayan ta\u015f tavanda d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck \u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131 bir lamba as\u0131l\u0131yd\u0131. Gen\u00e7ler ki\u015fisel ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131 i\u00e7in dokuz as\u0131r \u00f6nce yontulmu\u015f ta\u015flardan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f s\u0131hhiye binalar\u0131n\u0131 kullan\u0131yor, e\u011fimli, kaygan bir bah\u00e7ede bulunan tarih\u00ee \u00e7e\u015fmeden su ta\u015f\u0131yorlar. Do\u011frusu, merak ettim: Bu gen\u00e7lerin akademik \u015fehir hayatlar\u0131 b\u00f6yleyse, k\u00f6yde nas\u0131l ya\u015f\u0131yorlar acaba?<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Gecenin sonuna do\u011fru, insan\u0131n kemi\u011fini donduran nem i\u00e7inde ilk kez Said Nurs\u00ee\u2019nin izlerine rastgeldim.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">1916 Ocak\u2019\u0131nda, Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019ndaki karga\u015fal\u0131klar\u0131n ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u0131rada Said Nurs\u00ee Erzuruma\u2019a gelmi\u015fti. Bir molla i\u00e7in merak uyand\u0131ran bir vazifeydi bu. Daha sonra \u00f6\u011frendiklerime g\u00f6re kavgac\u0131 bir karakter ve kendisini \u0130sl\u00e2m\u2019\u0131n yaln\u0131zca siyas\u00ee ve\u00e7hesine de\u011fil, cihad ve\u00e7hesine de adam\u0131\u015f ceng\u00e2ver biri i\u00e7in, ayn\u0131 zamanda tutarl\u0131 bir g\u00f6revdi de. Ne ki, onun bu g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fc, t\u0131pk\u0131 korumaya azmetti\u011fi imparatorluk gibi, sava\u015f kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda hayatiyetini devam ettiremeyecekti.*<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Osmanl\u0131lar, d\u00fc\u015fmanl\u0131klar patlak verdi\u011finde, m\u00fcttefikleri Almanya\u2019n\u0131n te\u015fvikiyle, \u0130ttifak kuvvetlerine kar\u015f\u0131 cihad ilan etmi\u015flerdi. Bu \u015fekilde sava\u015f i\u00e7in biraraya gelen erkeklerin say\u0131s\u0131, hayli y\u00fcksek rakamlara ula\u015ft\u0131. Ba\u015f\u0131nda g\u00fczel bir sar\u0131k, s\u0131rt\u0131nda bir asker\u00ee palto oldu\u011fu halde, belinde k\u0131vr\u0131ml\u0131 han\u00e7eri ve s\u0131rt\u0131nda t\u00fcfe\u011fiyle en \u00f6n safta sava\u015fan Said, kumandas\u0131 alt\u0131ndakilere, Allah r\u0131zas\u0131 i\u00e7in kalem ve k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7la cihad eden eski \u0130sl\u00e2m kahramanlar\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlatm\u0131\u015f olmal\u0131.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Ancak, ne kalem ne de k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7, Kafkaslardan gelip Anadolu i\u00e7erisinde g\u00fcneybat\u0131ya do\u011fru ilerleyen Ruslar\u0131 durdurabildi. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Said\u2019in kumandas\u0131 alt\u0131nda bulunan ve ba\u015f\u0131na takt\u0131klar\u0131 \u015feye atfen \u2018ke\u00e7e k\u00fclahl\u0131lar\u2019 diye nam salan milis birli\u011fi d\u00f6rt-be\u015f bin ki\u015fi civar\u0131ndayd\u0131. Onun milis alay\u0131 b\u00fct\u00fcn cesur ruhlar\u0131na, \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc hi\u00e7e sayan tav\u0131rlar\u0131na ve duyduklar\u0131 din\u00ee \u015fevke ra\u011fmen, k\u00f6t\u00fc beslenmi\u015f, levaz\u0131mat\u0131 az ve maa\u015f\u0131 yetersiz Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n as\u0131l birliklerine \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc g\u00f6ze alarak sava\u015fma hissini a\u015f\u0131layamad\u0131. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">1916 Ocak\u2019\u0131n\u0131n sert, karl\u0131 bir g\u00fcn\u00fcnde, Said\u2019in milis alay\u0131, sair Osmanl\u0131 birlikleriyle beraber, Erzurum\u2019un birka\u00e7 kilometre do\u011fusundaki stratejik Pasinler mevkiinde Ruslara sald\u0131rd\u0131. Say\u0131 ve m\u00fchimmat bak\u0131m\u0131ndan \u00fcst\u00fcn olan Osmanl\u0131 ordusu da\u011f\u0131larak geri ka\u00e7t\u0131. Said\u2019in adamlar\u0131 tarih\u00ee kalesini son siper yapt\u0131klar\u0131 Van\u2019a \u00e7ekilmek zorunda kald\u0131lar. Bir ay sonra Rus askerleri Erzurum\u2019a girdi.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Ruslar, birka\u00e7 H\u0131ristiyan Ermeni toplulu\u011fu d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, \u015fehri bombo\u015f buldular. 1914\u2019te \u015fehirde yirmi bin Ermeni varken, \u015fimdi yaln\u0131zca seksen-y\u00fcz civar\u0131nda Ermeni kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Sair Ermeniler, birka\u00e7 ay \u00f6nce, Osmanl\u0131 yetkililerinin emriyle, toparlan\u0131p mallar\u0131n\u0131 satmak i\u00e7in yaln\u0131zca birka\u00e7 g\u00fcn m\u00fcddet verildikten sonra, Sivas yolu \u00fczerinden, bir\u00e7o\u011funun \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Kemah\u2019taki F\u0131rat bo\u011faz\u0131n\u0131 ge\u00e7erek Suriye\u2019ye s\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fcler.  <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">T\u00fcrkiye s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 \u00f6tesindeki tarih\u00e7ilerin b\u00fcy\u00fck k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131n 1915 tarihinde zalimce i\u015flenen toplu Ermeni katliam\u0131n\u0131 kabul etmesine ra\u011fmen, Erzurum\u2019u, civar k\u00f6y, kasaba ve \u015fehirleri bo\u015faltan Anadolu\u2019daki Ermeni g\u00f6\u00e7\u00fc ile ilgili olaylar T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de ancak imal\u0131 bir \u00fcslupla yaz\u0131l\u0131r. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u00dclke y\u00f6netimini elinde bulunduran ve \u00fclkeyi Almanya\u2019yla birlikte sava\u015f\u0131n ortas\u0131na \u00e7eken J\u00f6n T\u00fcrk milliyet\u00e7ileri, onbinlerce ki\u015finin \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc kabul etmelerine ra\u011fmen, onlar\u0131n g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczdeki Kemalist takip\u00e7ileri gibi, buna neden olarak hainlik yapan bu az\u0131nl\u0131\u011fa kar\u015f\u0131 kendini savunma zaruretini zikrediyorlar. Ba\u015fka bir deyi\u015fle, Ermeniler, Ruslarla i\u015fbirli\u011fi yap\u0131p Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n do\u011fusunda ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z bir Ermenistan devletinin temellerini atmaktayd\u0131lar.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u00c7\u0131plak ger\u00e7ek, bu anlat\u0131mdan daha fazlas\u0131n\u0131 ihtiva ediyor.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Erzurum, Temmuz 1914 tarihinde, sava\u015f patlak vermeden \u00f6nce, Ermeni milliyet\u00e7i \u00f6rg\u00fct\u00fc Da\u015fnaksution\u2019un genel kongresine ev sahipli\u011fi etmi\u015fti. \u0130ktidardaki \u0130ttihad ve Terakki Cemiyeti\u2019nin temsilcileri, bu tarih\u00ee toplant\u0131ya kat\u0131larak, bir yar\u0131-\u00f6zerk Ermenistan vaadi ile, Ermenileri Rusya i\u00e7inde ya\u015famaya ve \u00c7ar y\u00f6netimiyle silahl\u0131 m\u00fccadeleye te\u015fvik ettiler. Kongre \u00f6neriye reddetti, ancak \u201cErmeni Osmanl\u0131 vatanda\u015flar\u0131 sad\u0131k bir millet olarak askere kaydolup sava\u015f\u0131r\u201d vaadinde bulundu. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Fakat, \u0130mparatorlu\u011fun sava\u015fa girdi\u011fi Ekim 1914 tarihinde, Ermeni milliyet\u00e7ileri, Rus Ermenistan\u0131\u2019ndaki s\u0131n\u0131r b\u00f6lgesinde olu\u015fturulan g\u00f6n\u00fcll\u00fc birliklere kat\u0131ld\u0131lar. Hasta yata\u011f\u0131ndaki Osmanl\u0131 devletini en \u00fcst d\u00fczey bir kapka\u00e7c\u0131l\u0131kla 1908\u2019de ele ge\u00e7iren \u0130ttihad Terakki y\u00f6neticileri, bu kadar g\u00fczel bir bahaneyi hayal bile edemezlerdi. \u0130ki ay sonra Osmanl\u0131, Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f merkez olmak \u00fczere, Rus kuvvetlerine kar\u015f\u0131 \u015fiddetli sald\u0131r\u0131lar d\u00fczenledi. B\u00fcy\u00fck ordu, kaleyi ele ge\u00e7irdikten sonra, Bak\u00fc \u00fczerinden T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fan karde\u015flerinin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde T\u00fcrkmenistan ve \u00d6zbekistan diye adland\u0131r\u0131lan b\u00f6lgeyi de Rus boyunduru\u011fundan kurtarmay\u0131 planl\u0131yordu. Belki de Afganistan\u2019a kadar gidip, Pencap\u2019a girerek \u0130ngilizlere kar\u015f\u0131 ayaklanmaya destek vereceklerdi.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Ancak, bu planlar\u0131n aksine, Harbiye N\u00e2z\u0131r\u0131 Enver Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n bizzat komuta etti\u011fi ordu, b\u00fcy\u00fck kay\u0131plar vererek yenilgiye u\u011frad\u0131. Y\u00fcz bin ki\u015filik Osmanl\u0131 ordusunun d\u00f6rtte \u00fc\u00e7\u00fc, b\u00fcy\u00fck k\u0131sm\u0131 Kafkaslardaki \u00e7etin k\u0131\u015f so\u011fu\u011fundan dolay\u0131 olmak \u00fczere, telef oldu. \u00d6yle ki, buradaki kay\u0131plar, M\u00fcttefik kuvvetlerle Bat\u0131 Cephesinde y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fclen \u00e7arp\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n en \u00fcst katliam mevkii olan Somme Sava\u015f\u0131ndaki kay\u0131plardan bile daha fazlayd\u0131.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Enver Pa\u015fa kabul etmemi\u015f de olsa, Sar\u0131kam\u0131\u015f yenilgisi, onun asker\u00ee kariyerinin sonuna do\u011fru bir ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7, ve daha da \u00f6tesi, \u0130mparatorlu\u011fun \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn de habercisi olmu\u015ftu. Enver Pa\u015fa, \u015fahsen, hayat\u0131n\u0131n son d\u00f6nemi hari\u00e7, bir daha komutan olamad\u0131. Bu son komutanl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, 1925 y\u0131l\u0131nda Buhara\u2019n\u0131n g\u00fcneyinde Bol\u015feviklere kar\u015f\u0131 sava\u015fan bir Basmac\u0131 isyan\u0131n\u0131 idare etti. Ancak, Ermeniler onun bu rol\u00fcn\u00fc dahi bir f\u0131rsat bildiler. Ermeniler, Enver Pa\u015fan\u0131n abidev\u00ee ahmakl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fcnah ke\u00e7isi olacaklard\u0131. Yahut, \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f bir ifadeyle, onlar\u0131n Anadolu haritas\u0131ndan \u2018temizlenmesi\u2019 zaten planlanm\u0131\u015f; Enver\u2019in felaketli seferleri ise, basit\u00e7e, bu stratejik gayeleri ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirme y\u00f6n\u00fcnde bir mazeret mi kazand\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131? O zamanlar, medya temsilcileri, \u015findilerden \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 olmayan bir tarzda, sava\u015f ve bar\u0131\u015f, hayat ve \u00f6l\u00fcm kararlar\u0131n\u0131n verildi\u011fi gizli toplant\u0131lardan uzak tutulurlard\u0131. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Elbette, 1915 ve 1916 y\u0131llar\u0131na gelindi\u011finde, Said Nurs\u00ee ve adamlar\u0131 i\u00e7in, Ermeniler ve Ruslar d\u00fc\u015fman kategorisindeydi. Her iki kesim, bulundu\u011fu hi\u00e7bir b\u00f6lgeyi d\u00fc\u015fmana kapt\u0131rmayan ve ba\u015fka yerlerde g\u00f6z\u00fc olmayan Said\u2019in iyi binici, keskin ni\u015fanc\u0131lardan olu\u015fan g\u00f6n\u00fcll\u00fc milislerinden korkmay\u0131 \u00f6\u011frendi. O s\u0131ralar Molla Said olarak bilinen Bedi\u00fczzaman, g\u00fcnd\u00fcz at s\u0131rt\u0131nda sava\u015f\u0131rken, geceleri \u015fa\u015fk\u0131n ve b\u00fcy\u00fclenmi\u015f halde siperlerine \u00e7ekilen milislerine kitaplar\u0131ndan par\u00e7alar okuyordu.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Molla Said, bir yanda t\u00fcfe\u011fiyle sava\u015f\u0131rken, \u00f6b\u00fcr taraftan bir Kur\u2019\u00e2n tefsiri olan \u0130\u015f\u00e2r\u00e2t\u00fc\u2019l-\u0130\u2019caz (Kur\u2019\u00e2n\u2019\u0131n Mucizeli\u011finin \u0130\u015faretleri) adl\u0131 Arap\u00e7a eserini yaz\u0131yordu. \u0130lk kez bu kitapta, modern zamanlarda \u2018uygun ara\u00e7larla\u2019 din\u00ee yayman\u0131n tasla\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7iziyordu. Kur\u2019\u00e2n hakikatleri bilimin ilerlemesiyle a\u00e7\u0131\u011fa kavu\u015ftu\u011fu gibi, tefsir de buna ayak uydurmal\u0131, modern bilimin ve din\u00ee usul\u00fcn \u00f6\u011fretilerini bulu\u015fturup kayna\u015ft\u0131rmal\u0131yd\u0131. Ki, bunlar, onun hayat\u0131n\u0131n eseri haline gelen \u015feyin [Risale-i Nur\u2019un] temellerini te\u015fkil etti\u011fi gibi, bug\u00fcn, onun ismini ta\u015f\u0131yan cemaatin ay\u0131rd edici \u00f6zelli\u011fidir.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">* * *<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">ANADOLU\u2019NUN DO\u011eUSUNDA karanl\u0131k erkenden \u00e7\u00f6ker. Yar\u0131s\u0131 Avrupa\u2019da bulunan \u0130stanbul\u2019dan bin kilometre uzakta olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, Erzurum \u0130stanbul ile ayn\u0131 saat b\u00f6lgesine mahk\u00fbm durumdad\u0131r. Saat d\u00f6rd\u00fc g\u00f6sterirken m\u00fc\u2019minler ak\u015fam namaz\u0131 i\u00e7in camilere ak\u0131n eder ve zehirli k\u00f6m\u00fcr duman\u0131 \u015fehri kaplamaya ba\u015flar. Bir fincan T\u00fcrk kahvesi i\u00e7in, bulunmaz bir saat! <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">(Kahvenin hafif uyar\u0131c\u0131 etkisi nedeniyle haram olup olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 senelerce dinen tart\u0131\u015f\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra onyedinci y\u00fczy\u0131lda Osmanl\u0131lar taraf\u0131ndan benimsenmesine kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k, \u0130stanbul, Ankara ve turist y\u00f6resi olan Ege ve Akdeniz sahilleri d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, ondan daha ac\u0131 bir i\u00e7ecek bulmak hayli g\u00fc\u00e7t\u00fcr.)<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Erzurum\u2019da belki b\u00f6yle bir yer bulabilirdik. O ikindi namaz\u0131n\u0131 k\u0131ls\u0131n diye u\u011frad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Ulu Cami\u2019nin onikinci as\u0131rdan kalma, b\u00fcy\u00fck ta\u015flardan yap\u0131lma muhte\u015fem kap\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131karken, Harun etrafa g\u00f6z gezdirmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. \u015eehir merkezine birka\u00e7 blok \u00f6tede, sola d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fte, camlar\u0131 buz tutmu\u015f, her taraf\u0131 kilim d\u00f6\u015feli k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir kahvehaneye girdik. \u015eehrin solgun resimlerinin \u00fcst\u00fcne geleneksel \u00e7alg\u0131 \u00e2letlerinin as\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu duvar, insan\u0131 hayrette b\u0131rakacak k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck s\u00fcslerle doluydu. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Birka\u00e7 dakika sonra duman t\u00fcten bir f\u0131ncan kahve \u00f6n\u00fcme konurken, ev sahibim bir bardak \u00e7ay tercih etmi\u015fti. Ben halimden memnun bir \u015fekilde s\u0131cak, az \u015fekerli kahvemi yudumlarken, o Amerika\u2019daki \u00fcniversite e\u011fitimi s\u0131ras\u0131nda kendi samimi hayat\u0131 ve \u2018\u00dcstad\u2019 diye adland\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 Said Nurs\u00ee\u2019nin eserleriyle Amerikal\u0131 bir arkada\u015f\u0131n\u0131 nas\u0131l M\u00fcsl\u00fcman yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 anlat\u0131yordu. \u2018G\u00fczel bir ticaret\u2019 diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm. Harun teknoloji \u00f6\u011frenmek \u00fczere Amerika\u2019ya gider, kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131nda ise onlardan birine dinini \u00f6\u011fretir.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Seyahatim s\u00fcresince \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fim \u00fczere, bo\u015f konu\u015fmak, benim ailemle veya Bat\u0131daki hayatla ilgili sorular sormak, Nurcular aras\u0131nda b\u00fcsb\u00fct\u00fcn sak\u0131n\u0131lan bir\u015fey de\u011filse de umumiyetle tercih edilen bir anlay\u0131\u015f da de\u011fil. Bu konular\u0131 en \u00e7ok merak edenler, beni a\u011f\u0131rlay\u0131p bana rehberlik eden heyecanl\u0131 ve dar ufuklu gen\u00e7ler idi ki, benim kendi inanc\u0131m\u0131 ve din hakk\u0131ndaki g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015flerimi merak ediyorlard\u0131. Cemaatin genel \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fclerine ayk\u0131r\u0131 oldu\u011fu halde, bu tarz sorular bir\u00e7ok defa soruldu. Bazen, kelimelerle ifade edilmese bile, hal diliyle bu soruyu sorduklar\u0131n\u0131 anl\u0131yordum. Hatta, bazan, yan bak\u0131\u015flarla sorular\u0131na cevap ar\u0131yor olduklar\u0131n\u0131 bile g\u00f6zlemledim.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Kahveden ayr\u0131l\u0131p soka\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda ak\u015fam karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 etraf\u0131 sarm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Erzurum\u2019un sokak lambalar\u0131ndan yay\u0131lan \u0131\u015f\u0131klar ya\u011fmurla kayganla\u015fm\u0131\u015f kald\u0131r\u0131mlar \u00fczerinde par\u0131ld\u0131yordu. Yayalar, su s\u0131zd\u0131ran \u015femsiyelerinin alt\u0131na sokulup aceleyle ko\u015fu\u015fuyorlard\u0131. Saat erken olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, Harun bana ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi vaktinin geldi\u011fini s\u00f6yledi. Bu ak\u015fam, yemekten sonra bir toplant\u0131ya bekleniyormu\u015fuz. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Erzurum\u2019un has yeme\u011fi, bir t\u00fcr kebapt\u0131r. \u015eimdilerde iyice yerle\u015fik hale gelmi\u015f bulunan, ama bir zamanlar Asya\u2019n\u0131n y\u00fcksek bozk\u0131r ve otlaklar\u0131nda ya\u015fayan bir topluluk olarak T\u00fcrkler, epeyce zamandan beri, hayvanlar\u0131n bacaklar\u0131ndaki taze etten yemek yapmada ustad\u0131rlar. Yerel ad\u0131 \u2018ca\u011fkebab\u2019 olan Erzurum kebab\u0131, \u015fi\u015flere s\u0131k\u0131ca ge\u00e7irilmi\u015f yumu\u015fak koyun etlerini k\u00f6m\u00fcr\u00fcn \u00fcst\u00fcnde \u00e7evirmek suretiyle pi\u015firiliyor. Bize gelen kebab\u0131 \u015fi\u015flerinden \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131p lava\u015f ekme\u011fin aras\u0131na koyduk, \u00fczerine ac\u0131 pul biber serptik ve T\u00fcrk sofralar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fczel bir i\u00e7ece\u011fi olan ayranla birlikte yemeye ba\u015flad\u0131k.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Karn\u0131m\u0131z doymu\u015f ve bedenimiz \u0131s\u0131nm\u0131\u015f bir vaziyette, bir \u00fcniversite profes\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcn bu geceki sohbetin mek\u00e2n\u0131 olan evine do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Gitti\u011fimizde sohbet ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f durumdayd\u0131. Yirmi kadar erkek salonda \u00e7o\u011fu ba\u011fda\u015f kurmu\u015f halde yere oturmu\u015ftu. Onlardan biri ince ve mistik bir ses tonuyla Said Nurs\u00ee\u2019nin eserlerinden bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm okuyordu. Anlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m kadar\u0131yla, bu ses tonu okudu\u011fu k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 kapl\u0131, alt\u0131n rengi yald\u0131zl\u0131 esere duydu\u011fu sayg\u0131dan kaynaklan\u0131yordu. Her paragraftan sonra orada bulunanlar konu \u00fczerinde bir yorum yap\u0131yor veya soru soruyorlard\u0131. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Harun, dost bir m\u0131r\u0131lt\u0131yla, oradakilerin bir\u00e7o\u011funun \u00fcniversitede ders verdi\u011fini kula\u011f\u0131ma f\u0131s\u0131ldad\u0131. \u201cBaz\u0131lar\u0131 da lisede ders veriyor.\u201d Bu ayr\u0131m\u0131 g\u00f6rmek imk\u00e2ns\u0131z. Ta\u015frada bile, \u0130sl\u00e2mc\u0131 olsun olmas\u0131n t\u00fcm T\u00fcrkler, koyu renkli elbiseler giymeyi tercih ediyorlar. Bu toplant\u0131larda, ayakkab\u0131lar, g\u00fcvenilir olmayan bir ekonomik durum g\u00f6stergesidir. \u0130sl\u00e2m\u2019\u0131 ya\u015fayan M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar, camide abdest al\u0131p namaz k\u0131ld\u0131klar\u0131 i\u00e7in mi veya gelenek ve nezaket icab\u0131 m\u0131 bilmiyorum, daima bir eve girerken ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 d\u0131\u015far\u0131da \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131rlar.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Bu ak\u015famki konu, Harun\u2019un s\u00f6yledi\u011fine g\u00f6re, Bat\u0131n\u0131n teknoloji ve bilimini al\u0131p k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc reddetmeyi tavsiye eden bir i\u00e7eri\u011fe sahipti. Bu konu ondokuzuncu y\u00fczy\u0131ldan beri \u0130sl\u00e2m d\u00fcnyas\u0131nda g\u00fcndemin ilk s\u0131ralar\u0131nda yer ald\u0131. Ne ki, Bat\u0131n\u0131n bilimini alma mecburiyeti M\u00fcsl\u00fcman alimleri Bat\u0131 medeniyetine kar\u015f\u0131 olan tav\u0131rlar\u0131nda pes ettirdi. \u201c\u0130lk \u00f6nce psikolojik uyumsuzluktan dolay\u0131 bu sorunu ortaya atan M\u00fcsl\u00fcman d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrlerin . . . as\u0131l endi\u015feleri \u0130sl\u00e2m toplumlar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fc\u00e7lerini kaybedecekleri korkusuydu\u201d diye yaz\u0131yor Said Nurs\u00ee ile ilgili \u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131r a\u00e7\u0131c\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fman\u0131n yazar\u0131 \u015eerif Mardin.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde, Said\u2019in kariyerinin mihenk ta\u015f\u0131, bir g\u00fc\u00e7 kayb\u0131 alg\u0131lamas\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7ok \u00f6tesindeydi. O, \u00f6nce Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fc\u015f\u00fc, akabinde sek\u00fcler cumhuriyetin kurulmas\u0131yla bu kayb\u0131n en ac\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 ya\u015fad\u0131.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Konu\u015fmac\u0131lar\u0131 do\u011fru anlad\u0131ysam, siyas\u00ee anlam\u0131yla kuvvet, yani iktidardan pek bahsetmediler. Onlar\u0131n kuvvetten kasd\u0131, bunun yerine, iman g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fcn insanlar\u0131 ve toplumu ayd\u0131nlatmak i\u00e7in kullan\u0131lmas\u0131yd\u0131. Onlara g\u00f6re, dinsizlik fikri bireyleri ve toplumu bozan en b\u00fcy\u00fck tehlikeydi. Bundand\u0131r ki, Said Nurs\u00ee daima imana vurgu yapar; ve, bug\u00fcn g\u00f6zlemledi\u011fim ve daha sonra tekrar tekrar kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m \u00fczere, onun talebeleri, s\u00fcrekli i\u015flenen bir tema gibi, bu noktalar \u00fczerinde manev\u00ee egzersizler yap\u0131p kendilerini g\u00fc\u00e7lendiriyorlar.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">ERTES\u0130 SABAH BULUTLAR g\u00f6r\u00fcnmez oldu. Parlak k\u0131\u015f g\u00fcne\u015fi granit grisi Erzurum \u00fczerine yans\u0131yor ve etraftaki tepelere yeni d\u00fc\u015fen karlar \u00fczerinde \u0131\u015f\u0131ld\u0131yordu. \u00d6\u011frenci yurdunda yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z, peynir, zeytin, bal ve \u00e7aydan m\u00fcte\u015fekkil kahvalt\u0131dan sonra, \u015fehri bir sabah vaktinde g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in Harun\u2019la ikimiz d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Ge\u00e7en geceden kalma su birikintilerinin \u00fcst\u00fc buzla kapl\u0131yd\u0131. \u00c7ifte Minare yolundaki kald\u0131r\u0131m ta\u015flar\u0131 k\u0131ra\u011f\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcnden kaygan oldu\u011fundan, ihtiyatl\u0131 olmam\u0131z gerekiyordu. Medrese\u2019nin biti\u015fi\u011finde Al\u00e2addin Keykubat\u2019\u0131n k\u0131z\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, yontulmu\u015f ta\u015ftan yap\u0131lma, kare \u015feklinde, Sel\u00e7uklu sanat\u0131n\u0131n kalitesini g\u00f6steren bir t\u00fcrbe bulunuyor. \u0130ran\u2019da g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm gibi, burada da, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck gen\u00e7 erkek gruplar\u0131, bu erken saatte bile, g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeyen g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fc ufuklar\u0131n\u0131n camilerin mimarisinin temel par\u00e7as\u0131 oldu\u011fu, semaya a\u00e7\u0131lan s\u00fctunlu i\u00e7 avluda geziniyorlard\u0131. \u00d6rme takkeli iki sakall\u0131 ihtiyar, kap\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131ndaki bank\u0131 g\u00fcne\u015fli bir yere s\u00fcr\u00fckleyip \u00fcst\u00fcne oturdular ve M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar\u0131n Allah\u2019\u0131n isimlerini zikretmek i\u00e7in kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131 tesbihlerini \u00e7ekmeye ba\u015flad\u0131lar.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u015eehrin tarih\u00ee merkezinin \u00f6tesinde, y\u0131k\u0131lmak \u00fczere olan hamam\u0131n arkas\u0131nda, ba\u015fka bir an\u0131t duruyordu. Orada, 1919 yaz\u0131nda, Mustafa Kemal\u2019in\u2014o s\u0131ralar, \u2018T\u00fcrklerin atas\u0131\u2019 anlam\u0131ndaki Atat\u00fcrk soyad\u0131n\u0131 hen\u00fcz almam\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u2014kald\u0131\u011f\u0131, z\u0131rhl\u0131 kap\u0131s\u0131 olan bir ev vard\u0131. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Gelibolu\u2019nun kahraman savunucusu Mustafa Kemal, 1916 May\u0131s\u2019\u0131nda, ihtiras\u0131n harekete ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi, milliyet\u00e7i hezeyanlar\u0131n g\u00fctt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, ve \u0130ngilizlerin ipe sapa gelmez toprak ve imparatorluk ha\u015fmeti vaadlerinin ayartt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Yunanl\u0131lar\u0131n Asya\u2019y\u0131 par\u00e7alamaya ba\u015flamak i\u00e7in \u0130zmir\u2019e asker\u00ee \u00e7\u0131karma yapmas\u0131ndan bir g\u00fcn sonra, \u0130stanbul\u2019dan ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Kemal\u2019in hedefi Karadeniz\u2019deki Samsun liman\u0131yd\u0131. Kendisinin g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcrdeki misyonu, Do\u011fuda \u00e7\u0131kan kar\u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131\u011f\u0131 sona erdirmekti. Ancak ger\u00e7ek vazifesi \u00fclkenin par\u00e7alanm\u0131\u015f asker\u00ee g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc yeniden organize edip savunma bayra\u011f\u0131n\u0131 dik tutmakt\u0131. Birinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131n\u0131n galipleri olarak \u0130stanbul\u2019u y\u00f6neten \u0130ttifak kuvvetleri, Sultan\u0131n M. Kemal\u2019i Dokuzuncu Ordu M\u00fcfetti\u015fi yapan yaz\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 isteyerek onaylad\u0131lar. Veda g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmesinde Padi\u015fah Vahideddin\u2019in Mustafa Kemal\u2019e, \u00fclkeyi kurtarman\u0131n onun g\u00f6z\u00fcnde Osmanl\u0131 hanedan\u0131n\u0131n bitmesi anlam\u0131na gelece\u011fini bilmeden, \u201cPa\u015fa, \u00fclkeyi sen kurtarabilirsin\u201d dedi\u011fi s\u00f6yleniyor. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u00dc\u00e7 g\u00fcn sonra, 19 May\u0131s 1919 g\u00fcn\u00fc M. Kemal Samsun\u2019a ula\u015f\u0131r. Bu tarih, Osmanl\u0131 devletini y\u0131kacak ulusal bir devrimin ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131 olarak kabul edilir. M. Kemal, Samsun\u2019dan do\u011fuya do\u011fru yoluna devam eder. Amasya\u2019da Ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k Bildirisi yay\u0131nlar ve T\u00fcrkleri Erzurum Kongresinden sonra yap\u0131lacak Sivas Kongresine davet eder. T\u00fcrklerin kurtulu\u015fu, yabanc\u0131 i\u015fgali alt\u0131ndaki, fesada u\u011fram\u0131\u015f \u0130stanbul\u2019dan de\u011fil; par\u00e7alanm\u0131\u015f, i\u015fgalcilerle uzla\u015fm\u0131\u015f Osmanl\u0131 idaresinden de\u011fil, Anadolu\u2019nun derinlerinden gelecektir; ondokuzuncu y\u00fczy\u0131lda \u2018T\u00fcrk Ermenistan\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ba\u015fkenti\u2019 olarak bilinen, daha sonra Ermenilerin izinin kalmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir \u015fehirden&#8230; 23 Temmuz\u2019da \u015fehrin spor salonunda toplanan delegeler Mustafa Kemal\u2019in \u015fimdi \u2018\u0130stikl\u00e2l Harbi\u2019 diye adland\u0131r\u0131lan karar\u0131n\u0131 onaylar. Burada, onlar, M. Kemal\u2019in \u00e7elik eldivenli rehberli\u011fi alt\u0131nda, daha sonra Misak-\u0131 Mill\u00ee haline gelecek olan ilkeleri de ilan ederler.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Frans\u0131z Jakoben dilini, Prusya milliyet\u00e7ili\u011fini ve Wilsoncu idealizmi benimseyen bu misak, T\u00fcrklerin kendi kaderlerini belirleme haklar\u0131 oldu\u011funu teyid eder ve Anadolu ile Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n T\u00fcrkiye k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131n Yunan veya Ermeni devleti haline gelmesi imk\u00e2ns\u0131z b\u00f6l\u00fcnmez bir b\u00fct\u00fcn oldu\u011funu vurgular. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">T\u00fcrkiye Cumhuriyeti\u2019nin tan\u0131mland\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve temellerinin at\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir yer olarak Erzurum\u2019daki bu bina, nemli ve bak\u0131ms\u0131zd\u0131. B\u00fcy\u00fck kap\u0131 g\u0131c\u0131rdayark a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda Harun\u2019la ikimiz antreye girdik. Ayakkab\u0131 \u00e7\u0131karmak gerekmiyordu. Biz bu b\u00fcy\u00fck adam\u0131n mobilya ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck e\u015fyalar\u0131n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu oday\u0131 gezerken, tra\u015f\u0131 d\u00fczg\u00fcn olmayan bir bek\u00e7i merdivenlerden inerek bizi g\u00f6zetledi. Oda toz ve ihmalk\u00e2rl\u0131k kokuyordu. Etraf\u0131nda \u00fc\u00e7 sandalye olan odan\u0131n ortas\u0131nda tahta bir masa etraf\u0131ndaki, g\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 e\u011fik bir a\u00e7\u0131 ile alan \u00fc\u00e7 sandalye pasla kal\u0131nla\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Onun arkas\u0131ndaki, g\u00fcve taraf\u0131ndan yenilen k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 kadife kuma\u015fla kapl\u0131 sarka\u00e7, hazin bir halde g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyordu.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Uzaktaki bir duvar\u0131n \u00fczerinde, camekan\u0131n arkas\u0131nda yar\u0131 saklanm\u0131\u015f, paradoksal bir \u015fekilde \u00fclkedeki \u0130sl\u00e2m\u00ee geli\u015fmeye yeni bir enerji katan 12 Eyl\u00fcl ihtilalinin lideri General Kenan Evren\u2019in resm\u00ee ziyaretini g\u00f6steren bir foto\u011fraf as\u0131l\u0131yd\u0131. 80\u2019lerdeki Amerikan So\u011fuk Sava\u015f politikas\u0131, Rusya\u2019n\u0131n etraf\u0131nda muhafazak\u00e2r bir \u0130sl\u00e2m\u00ee \u2018Ye\u015fil Hat\u2019 olu\u015fturmakt\u0131. Siyas\u00ee cinayetler ve a\u015f\u0131r\u0131 sol ile fa\u015fist milliyet\u00e7iler aras\u0131ndaki sokak \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131, askerleri ve\u2014daha da \u00f6nemlisi\u2014onlar\u0131n arkas\u0131ndaki Washington\u2019u, NATO\u2019nun g\u00fcneydo\u011fusunda kom\u00fcnizme kar\u015f\u0131 bir siper olan T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin b\u00fct\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc muhafaza etmek \u00fczere harekete ge\u00e7meye ikna etti.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Amerika\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7\u0131karlar\u0131n\u0131 savunman\u0131n, ordunun T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin de\u011fil, T\u00fcrklerin kendilerine kar\u015f\u0131 Kemalist rejimin savunulmas\u0131 \u015feklindeki amac\u0131yla sakat bir tarzda uyu\u015ftu\u011fu ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. General Evren, dogmalara inan\u00e7la ba\u011fl\u0131 kal\u0131rken daha b\u00fcy\u00fck jeostratejik menfaatleri koruma gayretinde, hi\u00e7bir ba\u015far\u0131 sa\u011flayamad\u0131. Kom\u00fcnizme kar\u015f\u0131 bir antitez olarak \u0130sl\u00e2m\u2019\u0131 T\u00fcrk politikas\u0131nda \u00e7evreden merkeze getirerek, kendisini muhafaza etmeye yemin etti\u011fi \u00f6nemli kurumlardan birinin temelinin sars\u0131lmas\u0131na katk\u0131da bulundu.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\u00d6\u011eLE  VAKT\u0130 GELM\u0130\u015eT\u0130. Ayr\u0131lma zaman\u0131yd\u0131. Harun beni, t\u00fcm T\u00fcrk kasaba ve \u015fehirlerde oldu\u011fu gibi, \u015fehirleraras\u0131 ula\u015f\u0131m\u0131n merkezi olan otogara g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc. Beni otob\u00fcs peronuna kadar g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcp, elimi s\u0131kt\u0131ktan sonra, Van\u2019a gitmek \u00fczere otob\u00fcse bindirdi. Cilal\u0131, krom renkli arabaya korku i\u00e7inde bindim. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki otob\u00fcs hatlar\u0131, fiyat ve hizmet i\u00e7in rekabet eden \u00f6zel firmalar taraf\u0131ndan i\u015fletilir. T\u00fcrk olmayan, fazladan prim \u00f6demek durumunda kalabilir. Araban\u0131n ortas\u0131nda teknede imi\u015f gibi yalpalayarak y\u00fcr\u00fcyen muavin, b\u00fct\u00fcn yolculara s\u0131cak \u00e7ay, haz\u0131r kahve veya gazoz servisi yapar ve d\u00fczenli olarak yolcular\u0131n eline kolonya d\u00f6ker. Yava\u015f giden kamyon ve t\u0131rlar\u0131 k\u00f6r noktalarda sollad\u0131klar\u0131ndan dolay\u0131, \u015fehirleraras\u0131 otob\u00fcslere \u2018yuvarlanan tabut\u2019 nam\u0131 da verilir. Geceye do\u011fru vakit ilerledik\u00e7e, dar tepelerin k\u00f6r noktalar\u0131nda otob\u00fcslerin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na yava\u015f giden ara\u00e7lar \u00e7\u0131kar. Elbette, \u015fof\u00f6r i\u00e7in, hangi \u015fartlarda olursa olsun sollamak bir zorunluluktur.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">T\u00fcrklerin haf\u0131zalar\u0131nda seyahat ile ilgili uzun, ancak muhtemelen do\u011fru, ba\u015fkas\u0131ndan aktarma hik\u00e2yeler var. Kar\u015f\u0131dan gelen petrol tankeri ile \u00e7aresizce kafa kafaya gelip \u00e7arp\u0131\u015fan otob\u00fcs, bo\u011faza birden dalan \u00f6l\u00fcmc\u00fcl kaymalar ve yuvarlanmalar, K\u00fcrt gerillalar\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan yolda durdurulma, ter\u00f6rist av\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kan tetik sevdal\u0131s\u0131 jandarman\u0131n elinden \u00e7\u0131kan ku\u015funa hedef olma bu hik\u00e2yelerin ba\u015fl\u0131calar\u0131. Muavin arabay\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131rken, yolcular \u201cBismill\u00e2hirrahm\u00e2nirrah\u00eem\u201d diye f\u0131s\u0131ldayarak arabaya bindiler. \u015eof\u00f6r kapalar\u0131 kapat\u0131p, Mercedes-Benz arabay\u0131 otogar kap\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131 ve Anadolu\u2019nun b\u00fcy\u00fck karayoluna girdi. Ben de kendi kendime \u201cBismill\u00e2hirrahm\u00e2nirrah\u00eem\u201din \u0130ngilizce mealini s\u00f6yledim. Ne olaca\u011f\u0131ndan asla emin olamazs\u0131n\u0131z.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Otob\u00fcs \u00e7orak, karla kapl\u0131 da\u011flar, yaln\u0131zca an\u0131zlar\u0131n kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 geni\u015f ovalar, ve ta\u015fl\u0131 yoku\u015flardan ge\u00e7erken kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m kasaba ve k\u00f6yler gittik\u00e7e fakir, kirli ve \u00e7amurlu bir manzara arzediyordu. Pasinler kalesinin yan\u0131ndan ge\u00e7tikten sonra, \u00e7ift\u00e7ilik \u015fehri Horasan\u2019da birden arac\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne f\u0131rlayan bir bisikletliyi az kals\u0131n ezecektik. Kasabalar aras\u0131nda yol kenar\u0131nda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm, ufak, toprak ve samandan yap\u0131lma, tahta pencereli ve ot y\u0131\u011f\u0131nlar\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki,  \u0130ran\u2019da rastlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m yap\u0131lar\u0131 and\u0131ran yerle\u015fim yerleri dikkatimi \u00e7ekti. Yaln\u0131zca mandalar eksikti. <\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Arabam\u0131z yol kav\u015fa\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00fczerindeki A\u011fr\u0131\u2019da dururken, arkada b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 tozlar \u00fczerimize ya\u011fmaya ba\u015flad\u0131. Geldi\u011fimiz anayol Do\u011fubeyaz\u0131t\u2019a ve oradan \u0130ran s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na uzan\u0131yordu. Kaptan, otogara girmek yerine, arabay\u0131 \u015fehrin kenar\u0131ndaki bir benzin istasyonuna \u00e7ekti. Kazlar \u00f6nceki g\u00fcn ya\u011fan ya\u011fmurdan kalan su birikintisinin i\u00e7inde yiyecek ar\u0131yorlard\u0131. Ba\u015f\u00f6rt\u00fcl\u00fc bir han\u0131m yaprak d\u00f6km\u00fc\u015f a\u011fa\u00e7lar aras\u0131ndaki \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131r ipine y\u0131kad\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7ama\u015f\u0131rlar\u0131 as\u0131yordu. Parlak lastik botlar giyen \u00e7ocuklar \u00e7amurun i\u00e7inde y\u00fcr\u00fcyorlard\u0131. Sessiz ve sakin g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcne y\u00fczlerce bacadan k\u00f6m\u00fcr duman\u0131 y\u00fckseliyordu. G\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131 ufuktan iyice kaybolur ve hava so\u011fumaya ba\u015flarken, \u00e7at\u0131lar aras\u0131nda ezan sesi yank\u0131lan\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Karanl\u0131\u011fa denk gelen yolculu\u011fumuzun geriye kalan \u00fc\u00e7 saatlik k\u0131sm\u0131nda, araban\u0131n farlar\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kan \u0131\u015f\u0131klarla g\u00f6r\u00fcnen k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00e7al\u0131l\u0131klar, tozlu, lo\u015f ayd\u0131nlanmas\u0131 olan kasabalar ve az say\u0131da trafik levhalar\u0131ndan ibaret bir manzara h\u00e2kimdi.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Sa\u011f taraf\u0131mdaki trafik levhas\u0131 Malazgirt\u2019i g\u00f6steriyordu. Asya\u2019da tarihin kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131, p\u00fcr\u00fczl\u00fc \u015fuurlardaki tozlu tabakalar aras\u0131nda g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fckle kaybolur. Avrupal\u0131 tarih\u00e7ilerin \u2018Manzikert\u2019 diye adland\u0131rd\u0131klar\u0131 ovada 1071 A\u011fustos\u2019unda Sultan Alp Arslan komutas\u0131ndaki Sel\u00e7uklu ordusu kendilerinden say\u0131ca \u00fcst\u00fcn, ba\u015flar\u0131nda \u0130mparator IV. Romanus Diogenes\u2019in bulundu\u011fu Bizans ordusuyla kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya gelir. Bizansl\u0131lara g\u00f6re, Sel\u00e7uklular kendi maiyetlerindeki paral\u0131 T\u00fcrkmen birlikleri karde\u015fleriyle sava\u015fmak istemedi\u011fi i\u00e7in zafere ula\u015ft\u0131lar. Kazanma \u015fans\u0131na ra\u011fmen, Sultan, bar\u0131\u015f anla\u015fmas\u0131 teklifinde bulunur. Romal\u0131lar ise, kendilerine a\u015f\u0131r\u0131 g\u00fcvenden dolay\u0131 bunu reddeder. Cuma g\u00fcn\u00fc Cuma namaz\u0131ndan sonra Alp Arslan ata\u011fa ge\u00e7er. Roussel de Bailleul\u2019un y\u00f6netimindeki Norman askerlerinden olu\u015fan paral\u0131 birlik de sava\u015f alan\u0131ndan ka\u00e7\u0131nca, panik i\u00e7indeki Bizansl\u0131lar sava\u015f\u0131 kaybeder. Yenilgi, burada s\u0131k\u00e7a ger\u00e7ekle\u015fti\u011fi gibi, merhametsiz duygularla bozguna d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Alp Arslan zaferde bile alicenap biriydi. O ve tutsak imparator ebed\u00ee bir bar\u0131\u015f ve dostluk anla\u015fmas\u0131 imzalad\u0131ktan sonra, Alp Arslan Romanus Diogenes\u2019i serbest b\u0131rak\u0131r. Ancak, Diogenes, Konstantinopol\u2019e d\u00f6nd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde muhalif politikac\u0131lar taraf\u0131ndan a\u015fa\u011f\u0131lanarak g\u00f6zleri k\u00f6r edilir.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Malazgirt zaferi, Bizansl\u0131lar\u0131n K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Asya\u2019daki kaderine damgas\u0131n\u0131 vurur. Ondokuzuncu y\u00fczy\u0131lda, Alman bilim adam\u0131 H. Gelzer, \u201cMedeniyetin be\u015fi\u011fi, \u0130sl\u00e2m barbarl\u0131\u011f\u0131na ve tam bir vah\u015fili\u011fe yem oldu\u201d  diye yazmaktad\u0131r. Buras\u0131 Alp Arslan\u2019\u0131n halefi S\u00fcleyman ibn Kutalm\u0131\u015f\u2019\u0131n daha sonralar\u0131 Rum Sultanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 [Anadolu Sel\u00e7uklu devletini] kurup Konya\u2019y\u0131 ba\u015fkent yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 diyard\u0131. Bu \u2018barbarl\u0131k ve vah\u015fet\u2019 diyar\u0131, Gelzer gibi Alman oryantalistlerin s\u00f6zlerinin ra\u011fm\u0131na, evrensel a\u015fk\u0131n \u015fairi Mevl\u00e2n\u00e2\u2019y\u0131 ba\u011fr\u0131nda yeti\u015ftirmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Otob\u00fcs Van G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn sahiline d\u00f6nmeden \u00f6nce, uzaktan \u0131\u015f\u0131klar g\u00f6l sular\u0131 \u00fczerinde par\u0131ld\u0131yordu. Toz bulutu i\u00e7inde ana meydana girdi\u011fimizde, hen\u00fcz yolculu\u011fun yedinci saati i\u00e7indeydik. \u015eehir \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131, Erzurum\u2019da parlak olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, Van\u2019da lo\u015ftu ve k\u00f6m\u00fcr\u00fcn ac\u0131 dumanlar\u0131 burnumu s\u0131zlat\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>28.12.2003 \u0130LK BAKI\u015eTA, Prof. R\u2019nin bana \u00e7izdi\u011fi yol k\u0131lavuzu, benim i\u00e7in, anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r, hatta belki de \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fclebilir bir\u015feydi. Kriz enkaz\u0131 alt\u0131nda kalan \u0130ran ve Arnavutluk gibi yerlere yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m seyahatlerin bu sefer de ayn\u0131 metodu kullanmama olumsuz tesiri olup olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 merak etmeye ba\u015flad\u0131m. Prof. R., sosyal etkile\u015fimi kolayla\u015ft\u0130ran nazik ve tan\u0131d\u0131k bir geleneksel hitapla, \u201cFred Bey\u201d diye [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":52,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"ppma_author":[234],"class_list":["post-90334","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-yazarlar"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.9 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Do\u011fuya Yolculuk - Karakalem<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"noindex, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"tr_TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Do\u011fuya Yolculuk - Karakalem\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"28.12.2003 \u0130LK BAKI\u015eTA, Prof. R\u2019nin bana \u00e7izdi\u011fi yol k\u0131lavuzu, benim i\u00e7in, anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r, hatta belki de \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fclebilir bir\u015feydi. 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